Bunny Tote Easter Basket
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Sunday, March 31, 2013
Saturday, March 30, 2013
Free Crochet Fleur-de-Lis Fanfare Afghan Pattern
ePattern Fleur-de-Lis Fanfare Afghan
Finished Size: 52" x 68"
MATERIALS
Worsted Weight Yarn
[8 ounces (452 yards) per skein (Gold) or
6 ounces (348 yards) per skein (Variegated)]:
Gold - 6 skeins
Variegated - 5 skeins
Crochet hook, size G (4.00 mm) or size needed for gauge
Yarn needle
GAUGE: Each Strip = 13" wide
15 sc and 17 rows = 4"
STRIP (Make 4)
CENTER
With Gold, ch 39 loosely.
Row 1 (Wrong side): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across: 38 sc.
Note: Mark back of any sc on last row as right side and bottom edge.
Rows 2-271: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.
Row 272: Ch 1, turn; sc in first 19 sc, place marker around last sc made for cross stitch placement, sc in each sc across.
Rows 273-275: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.
Finish off.
EDGING
Rnd 1: With right side facing, join Variegated with sc in first sc on Row 275; sc in same st and in each sc across to last sc, 3 sc in last sc; sc in end of each row across; working in free loops of beginning ch, 3 sc in ch at base of first sc, sc in each ch across to last ch, 3 sc in last ch; sc in end of each row across and in same st as first sc; join with slip st to Back Loop Only of first sc: 634 sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, working in Back Loops Only, 2 sc in same st, † sc in next sc and in each sc across to center sc of next corner 3-sc group, 3 sc in center sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in each sc across to center sc of next corner 3-sc group †, 3 sc in center sc, repeat from † to † once, sc in same st as first sc; join with slip st to both loops of first sc: 644 sc.
Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), working in both loops, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same st,
† ch 1, skip next sc, (dc in next 2 sc, ch 1, skip next sc) across to center sc of next corner 3-sc group †, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in center sc; repeat from 2 times more, then repeat from † to † once; join with slip st to first dc: 440 dc, 216 ch-1 sps, and 4 ch‑2 sps.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn; sc in same st and in each ch‑1 sp and each dc around working (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch‑2 sp; join with slip st to Front Loop Only of first sc: 664 sc and 4 ch‑2 sps.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, turn; sc in Back Loop Only of same st and each sc around working (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch‑2 sp; join with slip st to both loops of first sc, finish off: 672 sc and 4 ch‑2 sps.
CROSS STITCH
Following instructions and chart, add cross stitch design to each Strip.
Each grey square on the chart represents one cross stitch. Each cross stitch is worked over one sc. To position design on Strip, match marked sc on Strip to the cross stitch marked with an X on chart. Using yarn needle and long strand of Variegated, weave end under several stitches on wrong side of Strip to secure (do not tie knot). With right side facing and Strip turned so marked sc is at top, work cross stitch as follows: bring needle up at 1, down at 2 (half cross made), up at 3, and down at 4 (cross stitch completed, Fig. 1). Beginning with marked sc, follow chart to add cross stitch design, repeat marked area 6 times more; then work remainder of design as shown on chart (for a total of eight fleur-de-lis motifs), leaving three unworked rows at bottom of Strip. All cross stitches should cross in the same direction. When working stitches in a horizontal row, work half crosses from left to right and then back again to complete stitches in row; when working stitches vertically, complete each stitch individually before moving down to the next one. Finish off by weaving end under several stitches on wrong side of Strip; cut yarn end close to work.
ePattern Lilac Mosaic Afghan
ASSEMBLY
Place two Strips with wrong sides together and bottom edges at the same end. With Variegated and working through inside loops, whipstitch Strips together, beginning in second ch of first corner ch-2 and ending in first ch of next corner ch-2.
Join remaining Strips in same manner, always working in the same direction.
MATERIALS
Worsted Weight Yarn
[8 ounces (452 yards) per skein (Gold) or
6 ounces (348 yards) per skein (Variegated)]:
Gold - 6 skeins
Variegated - 5 skeins
Crochet hook, size G (4.00 mm) or size needed for gauge
Yarn needle
GAUGE: Each Strip = 13" wide
15 sc and 17 rows = 4"
STRIP (Make 4)
CENTER
With Gold, ch 39 loosely.
Row 1 (Wrong side): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across: 38 sc.
Note: Mark back of any sc on last row as right side and bottom edge.
Rows 2-271: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.
Row 272: Ch 1, turn; sc in first 19 sc, place marker around last sc made for cross stitch placement, sc in each sc across.
Rows 273-275: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.
Finish off.
EDGING
Rnd 1: With right side facing, join Variegated with sc in first sc on Row 275; sc in same st and in each sc across to last sc, 3 sc in last sc; sc in end of each row across; working in free loops of beginning ch, 3 sc in ch at base of first sc, sc in each ch across to last ch, 3 sc in last ch; sc in end of each row across and in same st as first sc; join with slip st to Back Loop Only of first sc: 634 sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, working in Back Loops Only, 2 sc in same st, † sc in next sc and in each sc across to center sc of next corner 3-sc group, 3 sc in center sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in each sc across to center sc of next corner 3-sc group †, 3 sc in center sc, repeat from † to † once, sc in same st as first sc; join with slip st to both loops of first sc: 644 sc.
Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), working in both loops, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same st,
† ch 1, skip next sc, (dc in next 2 sc, ch 1, skip next sc) across to center sc of next corner 3-sc group †, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in center sc; repeat from 2 times more, then repeat from † to † once; join with slip st to first dc: 440 dc, 216 ch-1 sps, and 4 ch‑2 sps.Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn; sc in same st and in each ch‑1 sp and each dc around working (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch‑2 sp; join with slip st to Front Loop Only of first sc: 664 sc and 4 ch‑2 sps.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, turn; sc in Back Loop Only of same st and each sc around working (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch‑2 sp; join with slip st to both loops of first sc, finish off: 672 sc and 4 ch‑2 sps.
CROSS STITCH
Following instructions and chart, add cross stitch design to each Strip.
Each grey square on the chart represents one cross stitch. Each cross stitch is worked over one sc. To position design on Strip, match marked sc on Strip to the cross stitch marked with an X on chart. Using yarn needle and long strand of Variegated, weave end under several stitches on wrong side of Strip to secure (do not tie knot). With right side facing and Strip turned so marked sc is at top, work cross stitch as follows: bring needle up at 1, down at 2 (half cross made), up at 3, and down at 4 (cross stitch completed, Fig. 1). Beginning with marked sc, follow chart to add cross stitch design, repeat marked area 6 times more; then work remainder of design as shown on chart (for a total of eight fleur-de-lis motifs), leaving three unworked rows at bottom of Strip. All cross stitches should cross in the same direction. When working stitches in a horizontal row, work half crosses from left to right and then back again to complete stitches in row; when working stitches vertically, complete each stitch individually before moving down to the next one. Finish off by weaving end under several stitches on wrong side of Strip; cut yarn end close to work.
ePattern Lilac Mosaic Afghan
Fig. 1
ASSEMBLY
Place two Strips with wrong sides together and bottom edges at the same end. With Variegated and working through inside loops, whipstitch Strips together, beginning in second ch of first corner ch-2 and ending in first ch of next corner ch-2.
Join remaining Strips in same manner, always working in the same direction.
FREE FOR YOU from Leisure Arts, Inc. ©2013 All rights reserved. These instructions may be photocopied and shared with your friends. They may not be kitted or sold. We have made every effort to ensure that these instructions are accurate and complete. We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes, or variations in individual work.
Also, we invite you to check out all the special sales, discounts, and clearance items at Leisure Arts Promotions.
Also, we invite you to check out all the special sales, discounts, and clearance items at Leisure Arts Promotions.
Wednesday, March 27, 2013
How to Knit a Quick and Cozy Blanket
Saturday, March 23, 2013
Christening Coat & Bonnet Crochet Patterns
Gauge
Gauge - the number of stitches and rows per inch - is the key to a well-fitting garment. In each pattern, we have specified a gauge; it is essential that you achieve this gauge in working the garment. Before beginning any garment, take the time to work a gauge swatch in the pattern stitch and with the yarn and hook specified. Change to a larger or smaller hook if necessary to achieve gauge.
Abbreviations
beg begin(ning)
ch chain(s)
dc double crochet(s)
rem remain(ing)
rep repeat
rnd round
sc single crochet(s)
sk skip
sl st slip stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
st(s) stitch(es)
yd(s) yard(s)
YO yarn over
Size Note: Coat fits newborn to 9 months. Skirt of garment measures 12½" from underarm to lower edge; for use as a jacket, work until skirt measures 6½" long. Bonnet fits newborn to three months.
Materials:
Baby weight yarn, for coat, 5 oz; for jacket, 3 oz; for bonnet, 1 oz
4 buttons ¼" diameter
¾ yd ribbon ¼" wide
steel crochet hook size 2 or size needed for gauge.
Gauge: In dc, 6 sts = 1"; 2 rows = ¾"
Four, 3 dc groups= 2¼"; 6 rows = 2"
Coat
Back Yoke:
Beg at neck edge, ch 61.
Row 1 (right side): 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, sk 2 ch, * 3 dc in next ch, sk 2 ch; rep from * across, ending 3 dc in last ch: you should have 20, 3-dc groups; ch 3, turn.
Row 2: * 3 dc in sp between next two 3-dc groups; rep from * across, ending dc in top of turning ch: you should have 19, 3-dc groups; ch 3, turn.
Row 3: 2 dc in sp between dc and first 3-dc group, * 3 dc in sp between next two 3-dc groups; rep from * across, ending 3 dc in sp between last 3-dc group and turning ch: 20, 3-dc groups; ch 3, turn.
Rows 4-7: Rep Rows 2 and 3, twice.
Row 8: Rep Row 2.
Row 9: Dc in each dc across: 59 dc (counting turning ch as one dc); ch 3, turn.
Row 10: * Sk next dc, dc in each of next 3 dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in each of next 3 dc (scallop made); rep from * across, ending sk 1, dc in top of turning ch: you should have 7 scallops.
Finish off.
Left Front Yoke:
With wrong side of Back Yoke facing and neck edge at top, join yarn in ch st at upper right-hand corner.
Row 1: Ch 3, (3 dc in sp between next two 3-dc groups) 6 times: you should have 6, 3-dc groups for shoulder. Loosely ch 15 for front of neck; turn, being careful not to twist chain.
Row 2: 2 dc in 4th ch from hook; (sk 2 ch, 3 dc in next ch) 3 times; sk 2 ch, 3 dc in top of first dc of Row 1; (3 dc in sp between next two 3-dc groups) 5 times; 3 dc in turning ch sp: you should have 11, 3-dc groups; ch 3, turn.
Row 3: * 3 dc between next two 3-dc groups; rep from * across, ending dc in top of ch: you should have 10, 3-dc groups; ch 3, turn.
Row 4: 2 dc in sp between dc and first 3-dc group, * 3 dc between next two 3-dc groups; rep from * across, ending 3 dc in turning ch sp: you should have 11, 3-dc groups; ch 3, turn.
Rows 5-8: Rep Rows 3 and 4, twice.
Row 9: Rep Row 3.
Row 10: Dc in base of ch (inc made), dc in each st across, ending 2 dc in top of ch: 34 dc (counting turning ch as one dc); ch 3, turn.
Row 11: Sk 1, dc in each of next 3 dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in each of next 3 dc (scallop made); * sk 1 dc, dc in each of next 3 dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in each of next 3 dc; rep from * twice, sk 1 dc, dc in top of turning ch: you should have 4 scallops; finish off.
Right Front Yoke:
Ch 12 (these will be used at the end of Row 2).
Row 1: With wrong side of Back Yoke facing, shoulder edge at top, continue by working 3 dc in sp between 6th and 7th dc group from shoulder edge (Fig. 1); work (3 dc in sp between next two 3-dc groups) 5 times, dc in last ch; ch 3, turn.
Row 2: 2 dc in sp between dc and first 3-dc group; (3 dc in sp between next two 3-dc groups) 5 times, 3 dc in last dc of next 3-dc group; (sk 2 ch, 3 dc in next ch) 4 times: 11, 3-dc groups; ch 3, turn.
Row 3: * 3 dc between next two 3-dc groups; rep from * across, ending dc in top of turning ch: 10, 3-dc groups; ch 3, turn.
Row 4: 2 dc in sp between dc and first 3-dc group of prev row; * 3 dc in sp between next two 3-dc groups; rep from * across, ending 3 dc in sp between last 3-dc group and turning ch: 11, 3-dc groups; ch 3, turn.
Rows 5-8: Rep Rows 3 and 4, twice.
Row 9: Rep Row 3.
Rows 10 and 11: Rep Rows 10 and 11 of Left Front Yoke. Finish off.
Joining Yokes to Form Skirt:
Holding Left Front Yoke with right side facing, and skirt edge at top, join yarn with a sl st in upper right hand corner; ch 3 (counts as one dc), do not turn.
Row 1: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 3 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts, sk 2; rep from * across Left Front Yoke, ending last rep by working to within 3 sts of underarm (2 dc and turning ch); work dec over next 2 sts as follows: (YO, insert hook into next st, YO and pull up a loop, hook yarn and pull through 2 loops on hook) twice: 3 loops rem on hook; hook yarn and pull through all 3 loops; sk turning ch.
Pick up Back Yoke, with right side facing, sk first st, dec as before over next 2 sts (dec just made counts as first dc of next scallop); rep from * to *, ending last rep by working to within 3 sts from end, dec over next 2 sts, sk last st.
Pick up Right Front Yoke, with right side facing, beg at underarm, sk first st, dec over next 2 dc (remember to count dec as first dc of next scallop); rep from * to *, ending last rep by working to within 3 sts from end, dc in next dc, sk next dc, dc in top of turning ch. You should have a total of 15 scallops; the yokes should all be joined and armholes formed; ch 3, turn.
Skirt
Row 1: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 3 sts, 5 dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending last rep sk 1, dc in top of turning ch; ch 3, turn.
Rows 2 and 3: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 4 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending sk 1, dc in top of turning ch; ch 3, turn.
Row 4: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 4 sts, 5 dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts, sk 2 sts; rep from * across, ending sk 1, dc in top of turning ch; ch 3, turn. Note: From now on “ending sk 1, dc in top of turning ch; ch 3, turn” will not be repeated in instructions, but indicated as “ending as before.”
Rows 5 and 6: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 5 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before.
Row 7: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 5 sts, 5 dc in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before.
Rows 8 and 9: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 6 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 6 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before.
Row 10: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 6 sts, 5 dc in next st,dc in each of next 6 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before.
Rows 11 and 12: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 7 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 7 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before.
Row 13: Sk next st,* dc in each of next 7 sts, 5 dc in next st, dc in each of next 7 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before.
Rows 14-24 (or until skirt measures desired length): Sk next st, * dc in each of next 8 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 8 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before on even numbered rows; finish off.
Rows 2 and 3: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 4 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending sk 1, dc in top of turning ch; ch 3, turn.
Row 4: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 4 sts, 5 dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts, sk 2 sts; rep from * across, ending sk 1, dc in top of turning ch; ch 3, turn. Note: From now on “ending sk 1, dc in top of turning ch; ch 3, turn” will not be repeated in instructions, but indicated as “ending as before.”
Rows 5 and 6: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 5 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before.
Row 7: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 5 sts, 5 dc in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before.
Rows 8 and 9: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 6 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 6 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before.
Row 10: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 6 sts, 5 dc in next st,dc in each of next 6 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before.
Rows 11 and 12: Sk next st, * dc in each of next 7 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 7 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before.
Row 13: Sk next st,* dc in each of next 7 sts, 5 dc in next st, dc in each of next 7 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before.
Rows 14-24 (or until skirt measures desired length): Sk next st, * dc in each of next 8 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 8 sts, sk 2; rep from * across, ending as before on even numbered rows; finish off.
Edging
Skirt:
With right side facing, join yarn with a sl st in lower corner of garment left front. Ch 1, sc in same sp as joining; * sk 3 sts, 6 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2, 6 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2, 6 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st; rep from * across, ending last rep by working sk 3, sc in last st of lower right front finish off.
With right side facing, join yarn with a sl st in lower corner of garment left front. Ch 1, sc in same sp as joining; * sk 3 sts, 6 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2, 6 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2, 6 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st; rep from * across, ending last rep by working sk 3, sc in last st of lower right front finish off.
Neck: With right side facing, join yarn with a sl st in upper right-hand corner of first group at right front edge; ch 1. Sc in center st of first group, * 2 sc in sp between next 2 groups, sc in center st of next group; rep from * across neck edge.
Left Front Yoke: Work 3 sc in corner, * 2 sc in side of next row; rep from * to beg of skirt.
Left Front Skirt: * 2 sc into dc at end of each row; rep from * to bottom of skirt.
Skirt Edge: Sl st in first sc of skirt edging, * sl st in each of next 6 dc, sc over (into same sp as) next sc; rep from * across lower edge, ending 2 sc in corner sp. Now work right front skirt and yoke to correspond to left front skirt and yoke; join with a sl st to beg sc. Do not finish off.
Neckline:
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st, * sk 2 sts, 6 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st; rep from * across neckline, adjusting work so it lies flat, ending with sc: you should have 9 scallops. Finish off.
Row 2: With right side facing, join yarn in sc at beg of first neckline scallop, ch 1, sc in same st, * sl st in each of next 6 dc, sc over (into same sp as) next sc; rep from * across neckline.
Finish off.
Sleeves (make 2):
With right side facing, join yarn with a sl st at point where Front and Back are joined at underarm, ch 3.
Rnd 1: Work (2 dc into side of each of next 4 rows, 3 dc into side of next row) 4 times, ending 2 dc in side of each of last 2 rows: you should have 49 dc, counting ch 3 as one dc. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3, ch 3, turn.
Rnd 2: * Dc in each of next 5 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts, sk next st; rep from * around: you should have 4 scallops. Join with a sl st to ch 3; ch 3, turn.
Rnd 3: Sk 1 * dec over next 2 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 dc, dec over next 2 dc as before, sk 2; rep from * around, join to ch 3; ch 3, turn.
Rnds 4-9: Sk 1, * dc in each of next 4 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts, sk 2; rep from * around, join; ch 3, turn.
Rnd 10: Sk 1, * dec over next 2 sts, dc in each of next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, dec as before, sk 2; rep from * around, join; ch 3, turn.
Rnd 11: Sk 1, * dc in each of next 3 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 dc, sk 2. Rep from * around, join; ch 3, turn.
Rnd 12: Sk 1, * dec, dc in next st, 3 dc in next st, dc in next st, dec, sk 2; rep from * around, join; ch 3, turn,
Rnd 13: Sk 1, * dc in each of next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, sk 2; rep from * around, join; ch 1, turn.
Rnd 14: Sc in ch st and in each st around, join with a sl st; ch 1, turn.
Rnd 15: Sc in ch st, * sk 2, 6 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st; rep from * around: you should have 5 scallops, join to beg sc; ch 1, do not turn.
Rnd 16: Sc in same sp with joining, sc over (in same sp as) first sc, sl st in each of next 6 sts, * sc over next sc, sl st in each of next 6 sts; rep from * around, join
Finish off.
Buttonholes: With wrong side facing, join yarn at upper corner of right front, just below scallop, sc in same sp (ch 4, sk 2 sc, sc in each of next 6 sc) 4 times. Then work sc in each sc to end, sl st to scallop on bottom. Finish off.
Sew buttons on opposite side.
Bonnet
Back:
Ch 4, join with a sl st to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc throughout), work 15 dc in ring, join with a sl st to top of ch 3.
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each dc around; join with a sl st as before: 32 dc.
Rnd 3: Ch 3, * 2 dc in next st, dc in next st; rep from * around, join: 48 dc.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in each dc around, join.
Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in same sp, * dc in each of next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * around, join: 60 dc.
Rnd 6: Rep Rnd 4.
Rnd 7: Rep Rnd 5: 75 dc.
Rnds 8 and 9: Rep Rnd 4.
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join: 75 sc.
Center back section is completed and you will now work back and forth in rows.
Top and Sides:
Row 1: Ch 3, dc in each of next 5 sc, (sk 1, dc in each of next 4 sc, 3 dc in next sc, dc in each of next 4 sc) 4 times, sk 1 sc, dc in each of the next 6 sc; ch 3, turn. (Rem sts are left unworked for back of neck.)
Row 2: Dc in each of next 4 dc, (sk 2, dc in each of next 4 dc, 5 dc in next dc, dc in each of next 4 dc) 4 times, sk 2, dc in each of next 4 dc, dc in top of turning ch; ch 3, turn.
Row 3: Dc in each of next 3 dc, (sk 2, dc in each of next 5 dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in each of next 5 dc) 4 times, sk 2, dc in each of next 3 dc, dc in turning ch; ch 3, turn.
Row 4: Dc in each of next 2 dc, (sk 2, dc in each of next 5 dc, 5 dc in next dc, dc in each of next 5 dc) 4 times, sk 2, dc in each of next 2 dc, dc in turning ch; ch 3, turn.
Row 5: Dc in next dc, (sk 2, dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in each of next 6 dc) 4 times, sk 2, dc in next dc, dc in turning ch; do not finish off. Turn work so neck edge is at top.
Neck Edge: Ch 3, work 2 dc in side of each dc row, dc in each sc across back of neck, 2 dc in side of each dc row. Finish off.
Finishing: Weave ribbon through dcs of neck edge.
Print 
PDF
FREE FOR YOU from Leisure Arts, Inc. ©2013 All rights reserved. These instructions may be photocopied and shared with your friends. They may not be kitted or sold. We have made every effort to ensure that these instructions are accurate and complete. We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes, or variations in individual work.
Sunday, March 17, 2013
Crochet a Bunny Hat Free Pattern
Crochet a Free Bunny Hat in Multiple Sizes
Lots more Free crochet patterns are available to download from indie designers on the site so many great unique crochet pattern
Print and Play Easter Printable Pack for Kids
There are 4 packs total to download and print in PDF format
Filled with games
, puzzles, coloring pages and more.
, puzzles, coloring pages and more.
Be sure to scroll down when you click through the link below in order to see how to download these free printable Easter fun for kids. While you are on the site check out all of the free printable items available for kids from alphabets to activities and games.
Saturday, March 16, 2013
Kindle Book Handbags and Tote Bags to Crochet
This book can be downloaded on Amazon for free no Kindle required!
Patterns Include:
Crocheted Bag with Fabric Lining
Yellow Hat and Bag Pattern
Crochet a Tote Bag Purse
Crochet Large and Matching Small Handbag
Classic Vintage Handbag
Granny Square Tote Bag
Yellow Hat and Bag Pattern
Crochet a Tote Bag Purse
Crochet Large and Matching Small Handbag
Classic Vintage Handbag
Granny Square Tote Bag
Free Knit Baby Bunting Pattern
ePattern Baby Bunting & Mitts knitting pattern
Size: Birth to 6 months
MATERIALS
Worsted Weight yarn, approximately:
Main Color: 10 ounces, (280 grams)
Colors A and B: 1 ounce, (30 grams) each
Knitting needles size 7 (4.5 mm) or size needed for gauge
Markers
Yarn Needle
Crochet hook, size H (5mm)
14" Neckline Zipper
GAUGE: In Moss Stitch, 5 sts = 1", 7 rows = 1"
PATTERN STITCHES USED:
MOSS STITCH ‑ even number of sts, 4 rows
Rows 1 and 2: (K1, P1) across.
Rows 3 and 4: P1, K1) across.
CABLE PATTERN ‑ multiple of 6 sts, 4 rows
Row 1 (Right side): K1, P1, K2, P1, K1.
Row 2: P1, K1, P2, K1, P1.
Row 3: K1, P1, skip next st, knit in back of next st, knit skipped st, slip both stitches from needle (Cable made), P1, K1.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
BACK
With MC, cast on 82 sts loosely.
Row 1 (Right side): Work Row 1 of Moss St on 18 sts; place marker (see Markers), work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, work Row 1 of Moss St on 8 sts, place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, work Row 1 of Moss St on 6 sts, place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, work Row 1 of Moss St on 8 sts, place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, work Row 1 of Moss St on 18 sts.
Row 2: Work Row 2 of Moss St to marker, work Row 2 of Cable Pattern to marker; repeat from across, ending by working Row 2 of Moss St.
Row 3: Work Row 3 of Moss St to marker, work Row 3 of Cable Pattern to marker; repeat from across, ending by working Row 3 of Moss St.
Row 4: Work Row 4 of Moss St to marker, work Row 4 of Cable Pattern to marker: repeat from across, ending by working Row 4 of Moss St.
Continue to repeat Rows 1‑4 and AT THE SAME TIME decrease (see Decreasing, page 2) one st at each edge every 2½", 8 times: 66 sts.
When Back measures 20" from cast on edge, mark each side for Armholes. Work even in established patterns until Back measures 24"; bind off loosely in patterns.
LEFT FRONT
With MC, cast on 41 sts loosely.
Row 1 (Right side): Work Row 1 of Moss St on 18 sts, place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, P8 (Embroidery Panel), place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, K3 (Border).
Row 2: K3, work Row 2 of Cable Pattern, K8, work Row 2 of Cable Pattern, work Row 2 of Moss St.
Row 3: Work Row 3 of Moss St, work Row 3 of Cable Pattern, P8, work Row 3 of Cable Pattern, K3.
Row 4: K3, work Row 4 of Cable Pattern, K8, work Row 4 of Cable Pattern, work Row 4 of Moss St.
Continue to repeat Rows 1‑4 and AT THE SAME TIME decrease one st at Moss St edge every 2½", 8 times: 33 sts. When Left Front measures 20" from cast on edge, mark Moss Stitch edge for Armhole. Work even in established patterns until Left Front measures 23", ending by working a right side row.
Neck Shaping
Row 1 (Wrong side): Bind off 9 sts loosely, work across in established patterns: 24 sts. Decrease one st at Neck edge every other row, twice: 22 sts.
Bind off loosely in patterns.
RIGHT FRONT
With MC, cast on 41 sts loosely.
Row 1 (Right side): K3 (Border), place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, P8 (Embroidery Panel), place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, work Row 1 of Moss St.
Row 2: Work Row 2 of Moss St, work Row 2 of Cable Pattern, K8, work Row 2 of Cable Pattern, K3.
Row 3: K3, work Row 3 of Cable Pattern, P8, work Row 3 of Cable Pattern, work Row 3 of Moss St.
Row 4: Work Row 4 of Moss St, work Row 4 of Cable Pattern, K8, work Row 4 of Cable Pattern, K3.
Continue to repeat Rows 1‑4 and AT THE SAME TIME decrease one st at Moss St edge every 2½", 8 times: 33 sts.
When Right Front measures 20" from cast on edge, mark Moss Stitch edge for Armhole.
Work even in established patterns until Right Front measures 23", ending by working a wrong side row.
Neck Shaping
Row 1 (Right side): Bind off 9 sts loosely, work across in established patterns: 24 sts.
Decrease one st at Neck edge every other row, twice: 22 sts.
Bind off loosely in patterns.
SLEEVE (Make 2)
With MC, cast on 40 sts loosely. Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 4 rows. Work in Moss St until Sleeve measures 4" from cast on edge. Bind off loosely in pattern.
HOOD
With MC, cast on 30 sts loosely.
Row 1 (Right side): K4 (Border), place marker, work Row 1 of Moss St.
Row 2: Work Row 2 of Moss St to marker, P1, K3.
Row 3: K4, work Row 3 of Moss St.
Row 4: Work Row 4 of Moss St to marker, P1, K3.
Repeat Rows 1‑4 until Hood measures 14" from cast on edge.
Bind off loosely in pattern. Download the Printable Pattern here
Download this Free Onesie Knitting Pattern
FINISHING
Embroidery: See Photo for placement and detail. Beginning 1" up from bottom of Bunting, place a marker every 2" for placement of a flower motif group between markers in the Embroidery Panel of each Front: 11 flower motifs.
With Color A and using yarn needle, work Lazy Daisy (Fig. 3) leaves, and long straight sts for stems. With double strand of Color B, work 6 French Knots (Fig. 4)for flowers.
With double strand of Color B, work a French Knot into center between each Cable on Back, Left and Right Fronts. With Color A, weave yarn loosely over and under bars of knit stitch bordering each side of Cable panel on Back, Left and Right Fronts, and knit stitch Border on Hood.
Seams: Weave center back seam of Hood (Fig. 1). Matching patterns, weave shoulder seams and Hood to Neck edge. Weave Sleeve seams between markers, then underarm and side in one continuous seam. Weave Fronts together starting at bottom edge, leaving a 14" opening for zipper. Weave Back to Front at cast on edges.
Front Edging: With right side facing and using a crochet hook, join Color A at lower Right Front edge. Sc (Fig. 5) evenly up Right Front, around Hood, and down Left Front; join with a slip st (Fig. 6) to first sc: finish off.
Sleeve Edging: With right side facing and using a crochet hook, join Color A at seam. Work 22 sc evenly around ribbing; join with a slip st to first sc; finish off. Repeat for second Sleeve.
With MC, make tassel and attach to Hood (Figs. 2a and 2b). Baste a 14" neckline zipper into front opening: stitch into place, remove basting thread.
MITT (Make 2)
With MC, cast on 22 sts loosely.
Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 6 rows.
Row 1 (Right side): Purl across.
Row 2: Knit across.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until Mitt measures 3½" from cast on edge, ending by working apurl row.
Shaping
Row 1: K1, (K2 tog, K1) across: 15 sts.
Row 2: Purl across.
Row 3: (K2 tog, K1) across: 10 sts.
Cut yarn leaving a 10" end. Using yarn needle, tightly draw yarn through 10 sts on needle, do not cut yarn.
Embroider flower motif on center of each mitt (see Bunting Embroidery), then weave seam.
With right side facing and using a crochet hook, join Color A at seam and sc evenlyaround cuff; join with a slip st to first sc; ch 5, sc into edge of Sleeve ribbing, sc in each ch; join with slip st to first sc; finish off.
MATERIALS
Worsted Weight yarn, approximately:
Main Color: 10 ounces, (280 grams)
Colors A and B: 1 ounce, (30 grams) each
Knitting needles size 7 (4.5 mm) or size needed for gauge
Markers
Yarn Needle
Crochet hook, size H (5mm)
14" Neckline Zipper
GAUGE: In Moss Stitch, 5 sts = 1", 7 rows = 1"
PATTERN STITCHES USED:
MOSS STITCH ‑ even number of sts, 4 rows
Rows 1 and 2: (K1, P1) across.
Rows 3 and 4: P1, K1) across.
CABLE PATTERN ‑ multiple of 6 sts, 4 rows
Row 1 (Right side): K1, P1, K2, P1, K1.
Row 2: P1, K1, P2, K1, P1.
Row 3: K1, P1, skip next st, knit in back of next st, knit skipped st, slip both stitches from needle (Cable made), P1, K1.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
BACK
With MC, cast on 82 sts loosely.
Row 1 (Right side): Work Row 1 of Moss St on 18 sts; place marker (see Markers), work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, work Row 1 of Moss St on 8 sts, place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, work Row 1 of Moss St on 6 sts, place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, work Row 1 of Moss St on 8 sts, place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, work Row 1 of Moss St on 18 sts.
Row 2:
Work Row 2 of Moss St to marker, work Row 2 of Cable Pattern to marker; repeat from across, ending by working Row 2 of Moss St. Row 3:
Work Row 3 of Moss St to marker, work Row 3 of Cable Pattern to marker; repeat from across, ending by working Row 3 of Moss St. Row 4:
Work Row 4 of Moss St to marker, work Row 4 of Cable Pattern to marker: repeat from across, ending by working Row 4 of Moss St. Continue to repeat Rows 1‑4 and AT THE SAME TIME decrease (see Decreasing, page 2) one st at each edge every 2½", 8 times: 66 sts.
When Back measures 20" from cast on edge, mark each side for Armholes. Work even in established patterns until Back measures 24"; bind off loosely in patterns.
LEFT FRONT
With MC, cast on 41 sts loosely.
Row 1 (Right side): Work Row 1 of Moss St on 18 sts, place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, P8 (Embroidery Panel), place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, K3 (Border).
Row 2: K3, work Row 2 of Cable Pattern, K8, work Row 2 of Cable Pattern, work Row 2 of Moss St.
Row 3: Work Row 3 of Moss St, work Row 3 of Cable Pattern, P8, work Row 3 of Cable Pattern, K3.
Row 4: K3, work Row 4 of Cable Pattern, K8, work Row 4 of Cable Pattern, work Row 4 of Moss St.
Continue to repeat Rows 1‑4 and AT THE SAME TIME decrease one st at Moss St edge every 2½", 8 times: 33 sts. When Left Front measures 20" from cast on edge, mark Moss Stitch edge for Armhole. Work even in established patterns until Left Front measures 23", ending by working a right side row.
Neck Shaping
Row 1 (Wrong side): Bind off 9 sts loosely, work across in established patterns: 24 sts. Decrease one st at Neck edge every other row, twice: 22 sts.
Bind off loosely in patterns.
RIGHT FRONT
With MC, cast on 41 sts loosely.
Row 1 (Right side): K3 (Border), place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, P8 (Embroidery Panel), place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Pattern, place marker, work Row 1 of Moss St.
Row 2: Work Row 2 of Moss St, work Row 2 of Cable Pattern, K8, work Row 2 of Cable Pattern, K3.
Row 3: K3, work Row 3 of Cable Pattern, P8, work Row 3 of Cable Pattern, work Row 3 of Moss St.
Row 4: Work Row 4 of Moss St, work Row 4 of Cable Pattern, K8, work Row 4 of Cable Pattern, K3.
Continue to repeat Rows 1‑4 and AT THE SAME TIME decrease one st at Moss St edge every 2½", 8 times: 33 sts.
When Right Front measures 20" from cast on edge, mark Moss Stitch edge for Armhole.
Work even in established patterns until Right Front measures 23", ending by working a wrong side row.
Neck Shaping
Row 1 (Right side): Bind off 9 sts loosely, work across in established patterns: 24 sts.
Decrease one st at Neck edge every other row, twice: 22 sts.
Bind off loosely in patterns.
SLEEVE (Make 2)
With MC, cast on 40 sts loosely. Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 4 rows. Work in Moss St until Sleeve measures 4" from cast on edge. Bind off loosely in pattern.
HOOD
With MC, cast on 30 sts loosely.
Row 1 (Right side): K4 (Border), place marker, work Row 1 of Moss St.
Row 2: Work Row 2 of Moss St to marker, P1, K3.
Row 3: K4, work Row 3 of Moss St.
Row 4: Work Row 4 of Moss St to marker, P1, K3.
Repeat Rows 1‑4 until Hood measures 14" from cast on edge.
Bind off loosely in pattern. Download the Printable Pattern here
Download this Free Onesie Knitting Pattern
FINISHING
Embroidery: See Photo for placement and detail. Beginning 1" up from bottom of Bunting, place a marker every 2" for placement of a flower motif group between markers in the Embroidery Panel of each Front: 11 flower motifs.
With Color A and using yarn needle, work Lazy Daisy (Fig. 3) leaves, and long straight sts for stems. With double strand of Color B, work 6 French Knots (Fig. 4)for flowers.
With double strand of Color B, work a French Knot into center between each Cable on Back, Left and Right Fronts. With Color A, weave yarn loosely over and under bars of knit stitch bordering each side of Cable panel on Back, Left and Right Fronts, and knit stitch Border on Hood.
Seams: Weave center back seam of Hood (Fig. 1). Matching patterns, weave shoulder seams and Hood to Neck edge. Weave Sleeve seams between markers, then underarm and side in one continuous seam. Weave Fronts together starting at bottom edge, leaving a 14" opening for zipper. Weave Back to Front at cast on edges.
Front Edging: With right side facing and using a crochet hook, join Color A at lower Right Front edge. Sc (Fig. 5) evenly up Right Front, around Hood, and down Left Front; join with a slip st (Fig. 6) to first sc: finish off.
Sleeve Edging: With right side facing and using a crochet hook, join Color A at seam. Work 22 sc evenly around ribbing; join with a slip st to first sc; finish off. Repeat for second Sleeve.
With MC, make tassel and attach to Hood (Figs. 2a and 2b). Baste a 14" neckline zipper into front opening: stitch into place, remove basting thread.
MITT (Make 2)
With MC, cast on 22 sts loosely.
Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 6 rows.
Row 1 (Right side): Purl across.
Row 2: Knit across.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until Mitt measures 3½" from cast on edge, ending by working apurl row.
Shaping
Row 1: K1, (K2 tog, K1) across: 15 sts.
Row 2: Purl across.
Row 3: (K2 tog, K1) across: 10 sts.
Cut yarn leaving a 10" end. Using yarn needle, tightly draw yarn through 10 sts on needle, do not cut yarn.
Embroider flower motif on center of each mitt (see Bunting Embroidery), then weave seam.
With right side facing and using a crochet hook, join Color A at seam and sc evenlyaround cuff; join with a slip st to first sc; ch 5, sc into edge of Sleeve ribbing, sc in each ch; join with slip st to first sc; finish off.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
ABBREVIATIONS
ch(s) chain (s)
K knit
MC Main Color
mm millimeters
P purl
Rnd(s) Round(s)
sc single crochet(s)
st(s) stitch (es)
tog together
work even — work without increasing or decreasing in established pattern.
— work instructions following as many more times as indicated in addition to the first time.
( ) or [ ] — work enclosed instructions as many times as specified by the number immediately following or work all enclosed instructions in the stitch or space indicated or contains explanatory remarks.
ch(s) chain (s)
K knit
MC Main Color
mm millimeters
P purl
Rnd(s) Round(s)
sc single crochet(s)
st(s) stitch (es)
tog together
work even — work without increasing or decreasing in established pattern.
— work instructions following as many more times as indicated in addition to the first time. ( ) or [ ] — work enclosed instructions as many times as specified by the number immediately following or work all enclosed instructions in the stitch or space indicated or contains explanatory remarks.
GAUGE
Correct gauge is essential for proper size of garments. Needle size given in instructions is merely a guide and should never be used without first making a sample swatch approximately 4" square in the stitch, yarn, and needles specified. Measure it, counting your stitches and rows carefully; if you have more stitches per inch than specified, try again with larger size needles; if fewer, try again with a smaller size. Keep trying until you find the size that will give you the specified gauge. DO NOT HESITATE TO CHANGE NEEDLE SIZE TO OBTAIN CORRECT GAUGE.
MARKERS
Place markers as instructed. You may use purchased markers or tie a length of contrasting yarn around the needle. When you reach a marker on each row, slip it from the left needle to the right needle; remove it when no longer needed. Markers are sometimes needed to mark the beginning of Armholes; loop a short piece of yarn around the first and last stitch of the row indicated.
DECREASING
Knit 2 stitches together (K2 tog).
WEAVING SEAM
With pieces right sides together, catch one strand from each edge, being careful to match rows (Fig. 1).
Correct gauge is essential for proper size of garments. Needle size given in instructions is merely a guide and should never be used without first making a sample swatch approximately 4" square in the stitch, yarn, and needles specified. Measure it, counting your stitches and rows carefully; if you have more stitches per inch than specified, try again with larger size needles; if fewer, try again with a smaller size. Keep trying until you find the size that will give you the specified gauge. DO NOT HESITATE TO CHANGE NEEDLE SIZE TO OBTAIN CORRECT GAUGE.
MARKERS
Place markers as instructed. You may use purchased markers or tie a length of contrasting yarn around the needle. When you reach a marker on each row, slip it from the left needle to the right needle; remove it when no longer needed. Markers are sometimes needed to mark the beginning of Armholes; loop a short piece of yarn around the first and last stitch of the row indicated.
DECREASING
Knit 2 stitches together (K2 tog).
WEAVING SEAM
With pieces right sides together, catch one strand from each edge, being careful to match rows (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1
TASSEL INSTRUCTIONS
Wind a double strand of yarn around a 3" strip of cardboard approximately 20 times. Cut a separate 6" strand of yarn, insert under all strands at top of cardboard, pull up tightly and knot securely. Leave ends for attaching tassel to worked piece. Cut yarn at opposite end of cardboard (Fig. 2a); remove cardboard. Cut 2nd 6" strand and wrap it tightly around tassel twice, ½" below top (Fig. 2b); knot securely. Trim ends evenly.
Fig. 2a
Fig. 2b
LAZY DAISY STITCH
Bring needle up at 1, make a loop and go down at 1 again, come up at 2. keeping yarn below needle’s point (Fig. 3). Pull needle through, go down at 3 to anchor loop, completing stitch.
Fig. 3
FRENCH KNOTS
Bring needle up at 1. Wrap yarn around needle once and insert needle at 2, holding end of yarn with non‑stitching fingers (Fig. 4). Tighten knot, then pull needle through holding yarn until it must be released.
Fig. 4
FINISHING
Good finishing techniques make a big difference in the quality of any piece. Make a habit of taking care of loose ends as you work. To keep loose ends from showing, always weave them back through several stitches or work over them. When ends are secure, cut close to work.
SINGLE CROCHET
Insert hook in stitch indicated, YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through both loops on hook (Fig. 5) (single crochet made, abbreviated sc).
Fig. 5
SLIP STITCH
To work a slip stitch, insert hook in stitch indicated, YO and draw through st and through loop on hook (Fig. 6) (slip stitch made, abbreviated slip st).
Fig. 6
TASSEL INSTRUCTIONS
Wind a double strand of yarn around a 3" strip of cardboard approximately 20 times. Cut a separate 6" strand of yarn, insert under all strands at top of cardboard, pull up tightly and knot securely. Leave ends for attaching tassel to worked piece. Cut yarn at opposite end of cardboard (Fig. 2a); remove cardboard. Cut 2nd 6" strand and wrap it tightly around tassel twice, ½" below top (Fig. 2b); knot securely. Trim ends evenly.
Fig. 2a
Fig. 2b
LAZY DAISY STITCH
Bring needle up at 1, make a loop and go down at 1 again, come up at 2. keeping yarn below needle’s point (Fig. 3). Pull needle through, go down at 3 to anchor loop, completing stitch.
Fig. 3
FRENCH KNOTS
Bring needle up at 1. Wrap yarn around needle once and insert needle at 2, holding end of yarn with non‑stitching fingers (Fig. 4). Tighten knot, then pull needle through holding yarn until it must be released.
Fig. 4
FINISHING
Good finishing techniques make a big difference in the quality of any piece. Make a habit of taking care of loose ends as you work. To keep loose ends from showing, always weave them back through several stitches or work over them. When ends are secure, cut close to work.
SINGLE CROCHET
Insert hook in stitch indicated, YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through both loops on hook (Fig. 5) (single crochet made, abbreviated sc).
Fig. 5
SLIP STITCH
To work a slip stitch, insert hook in stitch indicated, YO and draw through st and through loop on hook (Fig. 6) (slip stitch made, abbreviated slip st).
Fig. 6
FREE FOR YOU from Leisure Arts, Inc. ©2013 All rights reserved. These instructions may be photocopied and shared with your friends. They may not be kitted or sold. We have made every effort to ensure that these instructions are accurate and complete. We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes, or variations in individual work.
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