Free Pattern Crochet a Vintage Baby Hat

Fisherman Crochet Hats

BOY’S HELMET or GIRL’S HAT
Size: 6, 12, and 18 months

Size Note: Instructions are written for size 6 months, with sizes 12 and 18 months in braces { }. Instructions will be easier to read, if you circle all the numbers pertaining to your size. 

Materials: 
Sport Weight Yarn, approx 1.5 {2-2.5} oz,
[40 {60-70} grams]
Crochet hook size H (5.0 mm) or size needed for gauge
Yarn needle

Gauge: In sc, 4 sts = 1", 9 rows = 2"

Pattern Stitches Used: Low Ridge Front, Cable, Knurl and Ball.

Note: Before beginning to work, it will be helpful to read the General Instructions thoroughly to familiarize yourself with the pattern stitches used.

View More Vintage Patterns to download...

CROWN (For both Boys & Girls)
Note: less otherwise instructed, always ch 1 to turn.

Row 1: Ch 64 {64-67} loosely, sc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across: 62 {62-65} sc.

Rows 2-3: Sc in each st across, working first sc in 2nd st and last sc in turning ch (Figs. 1a & b). 

Rows 4-7: Work LRF (Figs. 3a & b).

Rows 8-9: Work Cable (Figs. 4a-d): 20 {20-21} Cables. 

Rows 10-13: Work LRF.

Rows 14 thru 17 {19-21}: Sc in each st across; ch 1 to turn at end of last row.

For 6 and 12 months sizes ONLY
Row 18 {20}: Dec over next 2 sts as follows: pull up loop in each of next 2 sts, YO, draw through all 3 loops (dec made), sc in each st to last st, dec over last st and turning ch: 60 {60} sc.

For 18 months size ONLY
Row 22: H Dec over next 2 sts (see above), sc in next 11 sts; rep from  across: 60 sc.

All sizes
Row 19 {21-23}: Sc in each st across; ch 2, turn. 

Row 20 {22-24}:  Dec over next 2 sts, sc in next 8 sts; rep from  across: 54 sc. 

Row 21 {23-25}: Sc in each st across; ch 2, turn. 

Repeat last 2 rows working 1 less sc between each dec until 24 sts remain. 

Next Row: Sc in each sc across. 

Last Row: Pull up loop on hook to ½", H pull up loop in next st, YO, draw through 1 loop pulling it up to ½"; rep from H across holding all the loops on hook, YO, draw through all loops on hook, ch 1; finish off leaving a 24" end. Thread end; with wrong sides together and matching rows, sew seam.

Easy to Crochet Classic Granny Square and Motif Afghans - Granny Squares and Motifs

For Boy’s Helmet ONLY 
Helmet Flaps
Row 1: Working in free loops of beginning ch, join yarn in 8 {8-9}th st from seam, ch 1, sc in next 10 {10-12} sts. 

Rows 2 thru 8 {10-12}: Sc in each st across; ch 2 to turn on last row: 10 {10-12} sc. 

Row 9 {11-13} (Dec Row): Dec over next 2 sts, sc in each st to last st, dec over last st and turning ch; ch 2, turn: 8 {8-10} sc. 

Repeat last row 2 {2-3} times more: 4 sc. 

Next Row: Work same as last row of Crown. 

Work second flap in same manner. 

Edging & Ties
With right side facing, work in free loops of beginning ch. Join yarn in the 2nd st on the right side of seam, ch 1, work Knurl (Figs. 5a‑d) pattern Row 2 around to first Flap, skip the sts in corners where the Flap is attached, work  1 Knurl in the edge of each row to top of Flap. Make Tie as follows: ch 32 loosely, work a Ball (Figs. 7a & b), sc in each ch across being careful not to twist ch (Tie made). Continue working around hat in the same manner; join with slip st to first st, finish off.

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For Girl’s Hat ONLY 
Brim
Row 1: With right side facing, work in free loops of beginning ch. Join yarn in first ch on the left side of the seam, ch 1,  sc in next 3 chs, 2 sc in next ch; rep from  around; join with slip st to first Sc; ch 1, turn. 

Rows 2‑5: Sc in each st around; join, ch 1, turn. On last row, ch 1, do not turn.

Next Row: Work Knurl (Figs. 5a‑d) pattern Row 2 in each st around, join; finish off. 

Tie (Make 2) 
From the inside, locate the first LRF, join yarn in the 10 {10-12}th st from the seam. Ch 42 {44-46} loosely, work a Ball (Figs. 7a & b), sc in each ch across being careful not to twist ch, slip st in next St of LRF row; finish off.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

ABBREVIATIONS
approx   approximately 
ch(s)       chain(s) 
dc          double crochet(s)
dec         decrease 
ex sc      extended single crochet 
FLO      Front Loop Only 
FPC      Fisherman Popcorn
gr         gram(s) 
LRF     Low Ridge Front 
mm       millimeter(s)
patt       pattern
PC         popcorn 
rep         repeat 
Rib        Ribbing
sc           single crochet(s)
st(s)     stitch(es) 
WS       woven stitch 
YO       yarn over

SYMBOLS AND TERMS
work even – work without increasing or decreasing in  established pattern.
 – work instructions following  as many more times as  indicated in addition to the first time. 
(  ) – work enclosed instructions as many times as specified  by the number immediately following or work all enclosed instructions in the stitch or space indicated. 

GAUGE
Correct gauge is essential for proper sizing, and is extremely important in working Fisherman Crochet patterns, since each pattern may have a slightly different gauge. A slight variation in gauge will be multiplied and much more evident over a greater number of stitches. For instance, if you have 3½ stitches per inch instead of 4, a finished sweater will measure 11{11½-13}" long instead of 9½{10-11½}", a difference of 1½". Hook size given is merely a guide and should not be used without making a 4" sample swatch in the hook and yarn and patterns to be used in your piece. Measure the single crochet rows for standard gauge. If some of the pattern rows are shorter or longer than others, over the same number of stitches, change to a larger or smaller size hook for these rows. Keep trying until you find the size hook that will give you an even edge throughout. We have found that the Fisherman Popcorn, when repeated over several rows, requires a larger size hook, while Woven Stitch usually requires a smaller size hook. DO NOT HESITATE TO CHANGE HOOK SIZE TO OBTAIN CORRECT GAUGE.

PATTERN STITCHES

Photographs illustrate finished pattern rows, some of which  are made up of combinations of familiar crochet stitches. Techniques unique to Fisherman crochet are described below with the number of stitches required for a pattern repeat. Any changes that are necessary have been noted in individual instructions.

All patterns are worked into a foundation row of single crochet, which may be the ending row of the previous pattern.

To keep edges even at the end of each row, work first stitch into second loop (Fig. 1a) and last stitch into turning chain of previous row (Fig. 1b), unless otherwise instructed. 

Fig. 1a

Fig. 1b

Keep a constant stitch count to prevent losing a stitch or gaining an extra stitch.

LOW RIDGE FRONT (abbreviated LRF) – worked on any number of stitches, 2 rows.

Row 1: With right side facing and working loosely in Front Loop Only (abbreviated FLO) (Fig. 2) of previous row, slip st in next sc and in each sc across (Fig. 3a), ending by working slip st in turning ch; ch 1, turn.

Fig. 2

Fig. 3a                               

Row 2: Working in unused loop of previous row, sc in first sc and in each sc across (Fig. 3b), ending by working sc in turning sc; ch 1, turn.

Fig. 3b

RIBBING (abbreviated Rib) – worked on any number of stitches, 2 rows.

Row 1 and 2: Work LRF over the number of sts given, ending patt Row 2 by working over the number of sts given plus the ch at end of row.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for Ribbing.

CABLE STITCH – multiple of 3 sts plus 2, 2 rows.

Row 1: Working into previous row of sc, sc in next sc, ch 3 loosely, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc (Fig. 4a), turn, sc in each ch just completed (Fig. 4b), slip st in next sc (sc before ch was begun) (Fig. 4c), turn, working behind ch‑3, sc in each of 2 skipped sc (Fig. 4d),  ch 3 loosely, skip st where previous ch was attached and next 2 sc, sc in next sc, turn, sc in each ch just completed, slip st in next sc (sc before ch was begun), turn, working behind ch‑3, sc in each of 2 skipped sc; rep from  across, work sc in turning ch; ch 1, turn.

Fig. 4a

Fig. 4b

 Fig. 4c

Fig. 4d

Row 2:   Work 2 sc in next sc (behind cable), sc in next sc (behind same cable), skip sc where ch was attached on previous row; rep from  across, work 2 sc in turning ch; ch 1, turn.

Note: When also working Ribbing, end Row 2 by working 1 sc in st prior to Ribbing (same sc as first Cable), work Ribbing.

KNURL STITCH – worked on any number of stitches, 4 rows.

Row 1: Sc in next sc and in each sc across, ending by working sc in turning ch; ch 1, do not turn. 

Note: Next row is worked from left to right; keep hook to left of work. 

Row 2: Working in front loop only (abbreviated FLO) (Fig. 2),   insert hook in stitch to right of hook (Fig. 5a), hook yarn and draw through, under and to left of loop on hook (2 loops on hook) (Fig. 5b), YO and draw yarn through both loops on hook (Fig. 5c) (Knurl made) (Fig. 5d); rep from  across, ending by working last st in turning ch; ch 1, do not turn.

Fig. 5a

Fig. 5b

 Fig. 5c

Fig. 5d

Row 3: Working in unused loop of previous row, sc in first sc and in each sc across, ending by working last sc in turning ch; ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in next sc and in each sc across, ending by working last sc in turning ch; ch 1, turn.

PUFF STITCH always worked after a ch.

Pull up loop on hook to ½", (YO, pull up ½" loop) 3 times in last ch, YO (Fig. 6), draw through all 7 loops, ch 1 to close.

Fig. 6

BALL worked at the beginning and end of a tie.

Ch 1, work Puff st (Fig. 6), work Puff st in closing ch of last Puff st (Fig. 7a), slip st in ch prior to first Puff st (Fig. 7b).

Fig. 7a

 Fig. 7b

FREE FOR YOU from Leisure Arts, Inc. ©2012 All rights reserved. These instructions may be photocopied and shared with your friends. They may not be kitted or sold. We have made every effort to ensure that these instructions are accurate and complete. We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes, or variations in individual work.